Petrol, per month
RM 457
RM 199 of that is fuel.
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Compare charging against fuel, then compare the whole monthly cost — instalment, insurance, road tax and servicing included — and see the difference over five years. The two answers are often not the same, and that gap is the point.
It accounts for the BUDI95 subsidy and its monthly quota, for the split between home and public charging, and for the case that decides this for a lot of people: not being able to charge where you live.
Prefer Bahasa Malaysia? Kalkulator EV vs Petrol
Step 1
Energy only strips out instalments, insurance and road tax — useful for seeing the running-cost gap on its own.
Mileage is what pays back an EV. Be honest rather than optimistic.
Journeys that would need a charging stop.
Step 2
Real-world, not the brochure figure.
The exact prices used are listed under the result, with their sources.
Step 3
Strata properties often need management approval before a charger can be installed.
Energy that goes in at the wall but not into the battery.
Your own tariff band.
Fast charging. Usually several times the home rate.
These three should add up to 100%. If they do not, the calculation normalises them and says so.
Step 4
Per year.
Per month, averaged.
Per month.
Per year. Often higher than the equivalent petrol car.
Per year, under the 2026 ZEV structure.
One-off, spread across the comparison period.
EV road tax: the 2026 ZEV structure is official (MOT bulletin), but its detailed rate bands are not in any official document we found — verify with MyJPJ.
Verdict
Too close to call
The two are close enough that the decision rests on things this calculator cannot price — how reliably you can charge, and how much the driving experience matters to you.
Monthly difference
RM 1,566cheaper as a petrol car
Energy alone: RM 65 less to charge than to fuel, each month.
Petrol, per month
RM 457
RM 199 of that is fuel.
EV, per month
RM 2,023
RM 134 of that is charging.
Over 60 months
RM 93,967 more expensive as an EV
Charging is genuinely cheaper than fuel here — but the total monthly cost, once the instalment, insurance and road tax are counted, is still higher for the EV. Cheaper energy is not the same as cheaper overall, and this is the single most common way the comparison misleads.
An educational estimate. Depreciation is not included, and it is often the largest single cost of owning either car. Fuel prices, electricity tariffs and subsidy rules all change — check the assumptions above against what you actually pay.
Important note
This calculation is an estimate for education and early planning only. Actual results can differ according to your inputs, current policies, official documents, contracts, rates, charges and the methods used by the relevant provider. Check with the official authority or institution before making a financial decision.
Use this result as an estimate, simulation or early check before comparing it with your actual documents, contracts or records.
Reference basis
Compares the running and financing cost of an electric car against a petrol car. The BUDI95 subsidised price, the unsubsidised market price and the monthly subsidy quota are held in EV_CALCULATOR_CONFIG_ENTRIES with their own sources and verification dates, and are applied as a quota with market-rate overflow. Electricity rates, EV consumption, charging loss and the home/public split are reader input with sourced or clearly-labelled estimate defaults. ⚠ Depreciation is NOT modelled, and it is frequently the largest single cost of owning either car — the result is a comparison of running and financing costs, not a complete cost of ownership.
Key assumptions
Fuel price and the BUDI95 quota
The subsidised price applies up to the monthly quota; litres above it are charged at the market rate, so the effective petrol price rises with distance. The exact figures used are listed to the reader under the result, and a warning fires when usage exceeds the quota.
Charging cost
Energy drawn at the wall is battery energy divided by (1 - charging loss). The effective rate is a weighted average of the home, public AC and public DC rates in the proportions the reader sets. Public DC is typically several times the home rate, which is why the split matters more than the headline rate.
Ownership costs
Instalment, insurance, road tax, servicing and tyres are reader input. Yearly figures are divided into months and the charger installation is amortised across the comparison period.
⚠ Depreciation excluded
Not included in this comparison, and often the largest cost of owning either car. EV residual values in particular have been volatile.
Scope of the result
An educational estimate. Fuel prices, electricity tariffs and subsidy rules all change; check the assumptions listed under the result against what you actually pay.
Official / related sources
Ministry of Finance Malaysia • Checked 7 July 2026
Tenaga Nasional Berhad • Checked 7 July 2026
Ministry of Transport Malaysia (MOT) • Checked 28 July 2026 — PDF read directly (p.14, page index 13)
paultan.org (motoring media, not an official source) • Checked 28 July 2026
The most common way this comparison goes wrong is a real saving measured in the wrong place. Charging genuinely costs a fraction of fuelling. But an EV typically carries a higher instalment and a higher insurance premium, and the monthly total can land above the petrol car it replaced while every single charge feels like a win.
That is why the calculator shows both figures separately, and why it raises a warning when the energy saving is real but the monthly total still favours petrol. Neither number is wrong; they answer different questions.
One limitation worth stating plainly: depreciation is not included. It is often the largest cost of owning either car, and EV residuals in particular have moved sharply. What you get here is a comparison of running and financing costs — a real part of the picture, and not all of it.
Cheaper to fuel, almost always. Cheaper overall, only sometimes. Charging costs a fraction of petrol per kilometre, but an EV usually carries a higher instalment and a higher insurance premium, and if you need a home charger that is a real one-off cost too. This calculator separates the two questions, because conflating them is how people talk themselves into a car that costs them more each month while feeling cheaper every time they plug it in.
More than almost anything else. Public DC fast charging can cost several times the home rate, so an EV charged mostly on public infrastructure loses a large part of its running-cost advantage. If you live in a condominium or an apartment without an approved charger, that is not a detail to sort out later — it is one of the main inputs to whether the decision works at all. The calculator asks for your home, public AC and public DC split for exactly this reason.
It narrows the gap, up to a point. The subsidised price applies only up to a monthly quota; litres beyond it are charged at the market rate. So a high-mileage driver gets less benefit from the subsidy per kilometre than a low-mileage one, and the effective petrol price rises with distance. The calculator applies the quota and warns you when your usage exceeds it. The exact price and quota used are listed under the result, with their sources.
Yes, and usually against the EV. The energy saving is what pays back the higher purchase, insurance and charger costs, and that saving scales with distance. Drive very little and there is simply not enough fuel spending to recover. The calculator raises this as a warning rather than burying it in the arithmetic, because it is the case where a comparison that looks close is actually not.
No, and it is worth being clear that this is a real limitation. Depreciation is frequently the largest single cost of owning either car, and EV resale values in particular have been volatile. Treat the result as a comparison of running and financing costs, not as a complete cost of ownership.
No. Every calculation runs in your browser. Nothing you type is sent to or stored on a DuitMap server. The calculator needs no login and collects no personal data.